the fuel tank by Richard Cook
I have a couple of small items to maintain that fuel tank removal will help.
There are several reasons to remove itmajor service, cleaning and sealing the tank, installing electronics under it and servicing the electronics. Petcock changes dont require removal but since I wanted to access the electronics I thought Id kill both birds at the same time.
|Drain the tank. Both Fred and I have proved that if you dont have the tank on reserve when you drain it you will soon be showering. I irritated my wife with the smell of spilled gas when she came home and Freds garage is attached to his house. This does not improve your chances for domestic peace.|
|I plug the
crossover against spilling more gas with vacuum tube
plugs. Have the petcock on "off" if installed.
Somehow there is always a bit more fuel in a tank. Tilt
the rear up and slide the front under the bars carefully
to avoid scratches.
I Locktite one front bolt and use it loosely installed to locate the tank. Then install all the spacers and wiggle the tank and bolts until you get both rear ones started. Bolt, washer, spacer, tank mount and rubber spacer in that order.
Install the other front bolt and tight then rear ones until the rubber just starts to compress and the bolts are aligned with the holes on the outside. Tighten the front bolts. You used Locktite right? This means you dont need to get too tight and break them off.
Now you have the choice of installing a throttle spring to lock the rear tank bolts like I did, or just safety wiring them. For long trips Id go safety wire.
OK, so all you have to do now is install the crossover tube and the fuel lines
After hardly spilling a drop of fuel on this job I washed the bike with gas pouring fuel in from the can. You cant win.
Hintpark it outside the first night and bring a screwdriver for fuel hose clamps on the test ride. Leaks happen.