CJ750 toolbox
Removing the fuel tank by Richard Cook

I have a couple of small items to maintain that fuel tank removal will help.

There are several reasons to remove it—major service, cleaning and sealing the tank, installing electronics under it and servicing the electronics. Petcock changes don’t require removal but since I wanted to access the electronics I thought I’d kill both birds at the same time.

Drain the tank. Both Fred and I have proved that if you don’t have the tank on reserve when you drain it you will soon be showering. I irritated my wife with the smell of spilled gas when she came home and Fred’s garage is attached to his house. This does not improve your chances for domestic peace.
  • Remove the fuel hose or hoses from the petcock. The one shown here is a Dong Hai petcock adapted to my Chang. There is about a 5% chance I spelled that right. Sorry Clay.
  • Remove the safety wire on the two bolts that go up into the rear of the tank. These are 14mm on my bike. Just snip it with a pair of side cutters, then loosen the bolts.
  • Remove the two socket head screws on each side of the fuel tank.
  • Remove the two bolts that go up into the tank. There should be a rubber spacer on top and bottom of the mount. You need these so don’t lose them.
  • Clamp off the crossover tube. The one shown here is much longer than stock to allow for lifting the tank in the rear before removal to spill less fuel.
  • Remove the crossover tube and expect a bit of fuel to spill. Have a container under it. It’s a fine idea to have plugs handy for the tube.
  • Lift up the tank from the rear. I like to have a padded place ready for it. In this case it was an old towel on the plastic table I use out side.
I plug the crossover against spilling more gas with vacuum tube plugs. Have the petcock on "off" if installed. Somehow there is always a bit more fuel in a tank. Tilt the rear up and slide the front under the bars carefully to avoid scratches.

I Locktite one front bolt and use it loosely installed to locate the tank. Then install all the spacers and wiggle the tank and bolts until you get both rear ones started. Bolt, washer, spacer, tank mount and rubber spacer in that order.

Install the other front bolt and tight then rear ones until the rubber just starts to compress and the bolts are aligned with the holes on the outside. Tighten the front bolts. You used Locktite right? This means you don’t need to get too tight and break them off.

Now you have the choice of installing a throttle spring to lock the rear tank bolts like I did, or just safety wiring them. For long trips I’d go safety wire.

OK, so all you have to do now is install the crossover tube and the fuel lines

After hardly spilling a drop of fuel on this job I washed the bike with gas pouring fuel in from the can. You can’t win.

Hint—park it outside the first night and bring a screwdriver for fuel hose clamps on the test ride. Leaks happen.