CJ750 toolbox
Ignition switch replacement for an M1S by Richard Cook

I was pretty sure from the stories I had heard that the ignition switch a lot of 12 volt Changs ship with is a short time item .My bike came with three switches and I seem to get about a season on one. They are very easy to change, but I figure I might just as well bite the bullet and rewire a bit to install a tougher switch that is cheap and easy to get replacements for.

 
I have a boat switch here that would be water proof and long lasting but is really too long for the headlight bucket. I would have to put it under the seat and I might consider that later.

You will need a test light and common hand tools, possibly wire, connectors, tape, and crimp tools, an ignition switch and a good heavy toggle on-off switch.

The local auto parts store carries a few universal switches but the best for the headlight bucket seems to be the one sold for snowmobiles, lawn equipment, and anything else you want to use it for. It is rated about 15 amps and is water resistant. I chose it for its small size.

At Kragen it is ignition switch PA 443405 and retails for $9.99 and tax. It is made in the USA which seems rare.
Since this switch is universal one really does not need most of the terminals. There is no accessory position so it will be necessary to have another 10 amp switch to put your headlight system on if you want it to switch separately. I had a switch already mounted hooked up to my tail and sidelight so I just used that.

Remove the old switch and mark the wire for each terminal if you are not very familiar with electrical systems.

The only terminals you need to use unless you want to use this for a starter switch also is, B which goes to your battery hot wire. Ground your test light and touch it to each wire. One should light up; install this on the B terminal. You will want to connect both the wire to the lights and the wire to your ignition to the terminal marked L for load. If you want to install a separate toggle for the lights remove each of the two wires in turn with the switch on. When the lights go out you have found the wire to split to install a switch in.

Since there was only one power terminal I used the old two wires to one terminal trick of taking a ten inch piece of red 14 gauge, folding it in half and stripping the center for a terminal. I got a bit carried away soldering and shrink wrapping this one. You then install a slide on terminal on each end.

I had to cut off the plastic fuse holder to mount the switch and reduce the thickness of the resulting plastic washer which holds the generator light. A pair of nippers easily cuts the plastic, measure twice and cut once.

As you can see the key switch is a little smaller than the old one but the washer and nut that came with the kit worked with no other spacer.