Making your own duckboards
Looks like something's missing here. Duckboards really dress up the sidecar, especially if they're well-made. Unfortunately, some of the ones coming from China these days are a bit on the cheesy side. I looked around the Internet and found a couple vendors offering duckboards for over $100 a set. Screw that.
I spent less than $20 on material, and got enough steel for three sets. The steel is 1" x 1/8" and sold in 12' lengths, so that's what I got. The wood is oak, 1-1/4 x 3/4". Everything I needed was ripped from a single 6" x 6' plank.
Start by making bend and cut marks, based on the measurements you carefully made. (14-1/4" from front edge to first bend, 4" bend-to-bend, then 11" from second bend to aft edge.) Overall length of the two steel straps is 29-1/2".
Cut to length.
Make your initial bends as marked, easily done in a vice, and without any need for heat.
To get uniform curved bends, you'll need a jig of some kind. You could even use a small tree if you had to. I used an old glass-pack muffler clamped in a vice.
There's your curved bends.
The straps are flattened out slightly to facilitate the following steps.
Mark where your holes need to be. Here's where it gets interesting. I used an existing set of boards as a pattern and found it was constructed using a combination of metric and SAE measurements. Working forward, measure 4cm from the first bend. That marks the centerline of your board. From there, make four more sets of marks at 7cm intervals.
Working rearward, measure 2cm from the second bend. Make a total of four sets of marks at 7cm intervals starting at that point. These will mark the centerlines of the remaining boards.
Centerpunch for drilling.
I like to drill pilot holes, but it's not really necessary.
I used a 1/4" bit for the real holes.
Clean up the burrs, sharp edges and whatnot, then prep for priming.
Primed and ready for paint.
Painted and ready for wood. For this job, any decent quality aerosol paint is adequate.
While the paint dries, cut your wood into the following lengths: one 11", one 12", one 13" and six 14-1/5".
To mark the wood for drilling, lay the straps over the wood. They should be spaced with 7" between the inside edges. Take your time and get it spot-on. You're going to mark the wood through the holes you drilled in the straps. Keep everything as perfectly aligned as possible while you do this.
There, marked. Call me anal, but I also centerpunched the wood before drilling. These holes have to be in the correct locations, so why take a chance? For drilling, I used a 1/8" bit with exactly 1/2" protruding from the chuck. You don't want to go all the way through the wood. Also be sure to drill on the crappy side of the wood since it will be face down in the sidecar.
Pan head screws with washers. I used 3/4" screws. The washers were just a little extra insurance against the screws trying to poke out the other side, or at least making little bulges. In reality, they probably didn't make much difference.
The toeboard bolts need to be loosened in order to tuck a half inch or so of the straps underneath the toeboard. With the duckboards in the sidecar, I can locate and drill two more holes for securing the them to the floor. (I'm probably the only person who does this.)
And here you can see the afore-mentioned screws. They're actually allen head bolts with nylock nuts underneath the sidecar..