CJ750 toolbox
Making a wrench for CJ sidevalve head bolts by Ross Kowalski
I was going to pull the heads on the red bike to say hello and hopefully goodbye to any carbon in there. Of course I don't have a socket and don't like the kind of fitting 12 point solution, so I figured I would make one from a 3/8" drive socket opened up to 10mm and secured to a 1/2" drive socket.
Grinding a .5" rod to roughly square proportions. This bar was shiny and, as I recall, it was some kind of alloy nonsense, so it should make a good drift.
First the end is squared.
The squared end is ground to 10.24mm at the top.
The squared end is ground to 10.50mm at the base. This taper will be reversed when the drift is pounded into the bottom of the socket. The 10.50mm would be a hair too sloppy of a fit, but the socket will shrink a little after it cools.
I would have normally used the band saw because it is quiet and clean, but I seem to remember that this stuff saws horribly so off to the abrasive saw.
This is my wife's forge which is normally well illuminated with a couple of propane lanterns, but those are at the house in the screen porch because we had people over.
The forge is a charcoal forge which is expensive to fuel, but clean clean and plenty hot.
Here is the doner socket. It is a 7/16" 3/8" drive made by Thorson, which I won't ever use, but good enough that I trust the steel for this application.
Here it is, heating to a bright orange as viewed in the very poor lighting which translates to a good solid orange in normal dim lighting.
Removing the heated socket from the forge.
I didn't take a photograph of the most important step here because I needed both hands and had to work quickly. I placed the socket 3/8" drive side up on the anvil, positioned the drift at the drive opening and pounded the drift into it with a couple of good whacks.
Here is a head bolt I pulled with a wrench test fit into the socket.
Here is a 9/16" 1/2" drive impact socket I had doubles of. It is a Craftsman, so it is decent steel and the 9/16" is just smaller than the outside diameter of the 7/16" socket.
I didn't take a photograph of this step either because I had to remove the heated 1/2" drive 9/16" socket from the fire, put it on the anvil, position the 7/16" socket over it, and pound it in square.
The doner socket forced into the 1/2" drive socket. Notice the darkened area where they overlap. This area is about 3/8" inch which, when the bigger socket shrinks over the smaller one, will be plenty of interference.
Here is a shot of the finished part. The whole proccess took about half an hour or so.
After making a head socket, I was cleaning the shed and discovered that the 2000 Toyota Tacoma jack crank extension has a 10~11mm square socket. After a little heating I bent one into a standard L sort of shape, and the other into a C to allow for a little extra torque.